I spent most of my youth skateboarding, surfing, and rock climbing in the various places I grew up in. As I grew older I started to wander further and further; until one day I was just jumping on a train and heading across the country. This probably is not normal behavior for a fourteen or fifteen year old kid; but you would have to understand where I was coming from. This tales starts and stops, jumps and falls all over the place. All I ask is that you let me know what you really think about it.

Once he had finished our tour of Pasqualies; he hurried us over to a dinning area with black sand floors and sheets of corrugated metal for the roofing. One side of the structure was open to the road and the other faced the ocean. On the Northern end was a depository. On the southern end were 2 plywood doors with master locks on them. This he proclaimed with a huge grin would be our suite. Before we could say another word he threw us a small key and pointed to the door on the right. Donkey’s only request for payment is that we purchase anything we need from the family that owns the depository.  After that he was off and running into the night; as excited as I had seen anyone in a long time.

Chris and I stood looking in amazement at the surf. The size was at least 18-20 foot and closing out all the way across the sandbar. This was one of the heaviest breaks in the world; I had first read about it when I was 10 years old surfing in Florida. All of my years surfing I had talked about the legendary Pasquallies river mouth. I remember the stories of saltwater crocodiles, deadly surf, and land of the lost type settings. Over the next couple of days I would come to find out that all 3 were true character traits of this wonderful place. 

After awhile we turned to the door and looked at the key. The suite as we would come to call our room was about 8 foot by 8 foot and was made of planks nailed vertically to other planks acting as cross beams. The roof was the same corrugated metal sheets overlapping. The floor was actually a very solid combination of cinder-blocks and boards; with healthy portions of loose black sand on top. We lit a candle lantern that I had carried in my bag and started to inspect the beds. I took the one closest to the door; I was impressed to notice that it was a real bed with a blanket and some old, but not too tattered sheets. I threw a rain fly over it all and started to settle in.

As I laid there in bed the rain started to pound our small suite and I noticed that the surf was only a few feet from our heads. There was something weird about the room that I could not place, but after a bit my eyes began to adjust and I noticed that there were small crabs clinging to the walls all around us. This was very amusing at first, but as I began to fall asleep I wondered if they would eventually decide to crawl over and snuggle up to my face as I slept. Even with these thoughts in my head I eventually dozed off and enjoyed a great nights rest. 

Part 2 Coming Soon

Leave a comment and let me know what you think!

Liked it
  • XXElleXX on Jul 4, 2010

    So far so good .. I’ll keep an eye out for Part 2 .. and don’t worry Eric .. I’ll be honest with ya :-)

  • Jimmy Shilaho on Jul 4, 2010

    You seem to have had a very eventful youth, thanks for sharing.

  • Aiswarya T Anish on Jul 4, 2010

    WOW. You write realllly well!!!

  • mo hoyal on Jul 4, 2010

    Yes, you do write very well and and I am now waiting for part 2 to come around!

  • EricPinola on Jul 5, 2010

    I have over 300 pages sitting on my desktop; been carrying my story around for years. Some I have to keep for the book, but this will be stuff that I have edited out.

    Glad you have enjoyed it.

    Thank you for the comments.

  • aman259 on Jul 5, 2010

    This is good info and a good reminder

  • RSyed on Jul 5, 2010

    cool story man! Finalize your book, go for it and dont look back!!

  • EricPinola on Jul 7, 2010

    Thank you for the comments; I am almost finished with editing part 2.

    Where is the best place to publish a book online? Is there an advantage to doing it online vs offline?

    Where is the most money made?


  • HankonGreenbrook on Aug 21, 2010

    Hey, Eric! This is a good story. I am eager to see the next installment!


  • EricPinola on Aug 23, 2010

    Thanks Hank, I have many, but getting time to upload is the hard part. I’ll eat the frog!

    Eric Pinola

  • Jamie on Sep 1, 2010

    Pasqualies Oh Yeah! Some of the best surf in the world! Look forward to chapter 2.

  • Jamie Myles on Sep 1, 2010

    Pasqualies Oh Yeah! Some of the best surf in the world! Look forward to chapter 2.

  • Judy Sheldon on Nov 14, 2010

    Eric, Lulu and Amazon are two places I know that publish books. This is very interesting and I would love to see more. You also may want to think about blogging and adding adsense to your blog. You may develop readership. There are themes you can post your link at.

  • EricPinola on Nov 17, 2010

    I’m going to look into LuLu; thank you. I will sit down and post the next installment after Thanksgiving passes. Been very busy building a new company and homeschooling my children.

    Thank you for the comments!


  • Khaotic Rambler on May 16, 2011

    There’s a lot to your life that I never got to hear. I remember you mentioning something about catching malaria for a few days, a medicine man, etc.(those days of Carlos Castaneda). Maybe I was just imagining it. Don’t worry about telling me about it if what I remember happened. Save it for your book. It’s refreshing, reading something my little/big brother has written. A big part of your life I missed out on. Thank-you for sharing. I thought I was the only writer in the family. It was an awesome read. Keep it up- I’ll buy the first copy!

  • EricPinola on May 16, 2011

    Thank you Richard. It’s crazy because I have some 300+ pages of stories that I have written / typed out; but I never make the time to edit and post them. I have received great hits and adsense rev. off this “chapter”. Now it’s your turn to start posting some of your writings.


    write, post
    write, post
    write and post 1-2x + a day

    read and comment to their writings and they will do the same for you.


    thank each person for their comment like this and you will get more hits.




  • Karen Gross on May 16, 2011

    This chapter was pretty good. It made me look forward to reading part 2.

    A friend of mine wrote a great book, but she has spent about 10 years trying to get it published. She may eventually make a lot more money for her writing than I could ever earn by writing online articles, but at least the pennies roll in on a fairly regular basis.

  • Muhammad Fajar Marthias on Jun 15, 2011

    i liked it,thanks

  • Khaotic Rambler on Jun 18, 2011

    hey eric, just a suggestion. if you choose to make a blog with Diary of a Dirtbag (there’s tons of those out there) and publish it, one name idea: “Diary of A Nature Boy”. You might recognize the name Nature Boy from our days in Florida as teenagers (Primus). Just a thought. I look forward to reading more of your adventures.

  • MsSarah on Aug 11, 2011

    I’m interested in part 2 , when it will be

  • JaiRudolf on Aug 24, 2011

    good info, thx

  • Eric Pinola on Sep 1, 2011

    I sent a link to Facebook today to see the response, and to make myself accountable to producing part 2 ++++ soon I’ll start uploading more sections.


  • PHILLY DREAMER on Dec 28, 2011

    Very interesting story, I hope I won’t have to wait long for part 2

  • girishpuri on Feb 29, 2012

    very interesting , keep writing

  • Larissa on Feb 15, 2013

    I really like it! You have a wonderful writing style that almost lets ME be there. It’s also very encouraging of all the things we can do. Do you know who Eric Weiner is? He wrote a book called The Geography of Bliss and you might like it. I’ll continue reading so keep going!

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