Location and soil

For all the most common bulbs do not fit too low areas where water accumulates during rains and flooding and areas with similar groundwater. In these areas, conditions improve padding the ground, landing on the rocky hills or high ridge with drainage from the gravel at the base.

Tulips, hyacinths, and other bulbs with a similar cultural practices after drying may be planted every year to a new place that is recommended for mass plantings. To daffodils and plants important to their team immediately find a suitable permanent location.

Favorite soil – light neutral or slightly alkaline sandy loam rich in organic matter. Heavy clay loosen the humus and coarse sand. Ideally, prepare a mixture of fresh turf, or earth and leaf humus or compost, which generously add coarse sand or fine gravel.

Forest species such as wild garlic, arum, Arize grow well under the canopy of trees on individual forest soil.

Landing

The traditional time of planting tulips and hyacinths (mid) end of September – early October, daffodils planted since mid-August. But the vagaries of weather can change these terms and almost never fails to comply. To the extent that planting and other charges.

There are usually three bulbs (completely optional): a light soil planted to a depth equal to three bulbs in hard – to two. Its all know, but rarely observed, that usually does not affect the plants. Practically, tulips and hyacinths deep holes at 15 – 20 cm, as well as it can dig deeper and lilies, daffodils enough to 10 cm every trifle, planted in flower beds, conveniently placed in mesh pots and basket for onions, so they do not lost, they can be easily moved and do not mix varieties.

Top-dressing

Usually, onion enough natural fertility of the soil, but they are so responsive to feed that I want to fertilize.

In the spring, when the regrowth starts from the organic fertilizing pereprevshy use manure, compost, peat, better with lime, from inorganic – complex fertilizer (NPK), and to plant more stretched out, choosing the option with a high nitrogen content. The second time fed with budding, now mineral fertilizer with low nitrogen content, and at the end of flowering, or under a winter in the soil is desirable to make phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, or just ash, which contributes to a healthy, well-wintering bulbs.

Resistance to frost

In the autumn if desired landing site mulch, compost, cover spruce branches but it all will not help if the little plant is winter hardiness. After all, in the middle lane may soil freezing to over 30 cm deep. Tulips weakly-hardy Popular closely related bits: pretty tulip (T. pulchella), dwarf (T. humilis), violets (T. violacea = T. ‘PulchellaViolacea’) and including grade (’LilacWonder’). Young spring shoots of plants can withstand quite severe frosts on the ground (there is evidence that the tulip to -15 – 18 deg), but at the budding stage, they become susceptible. Early varieties may suffer during this period may otmerznut inflorescences with hyacinth.

Reduced winter hardiness in zhonkillya narcissus (N. jonquilla), perhaps his grades, and narcissus trehtychinkovogo with the grades. Virtually no winter daffodil brandushkovy.

Unfortunately, the recommendations on the packaging does not always take into account the peculiarities of winter in the Russian context, but the market sometimes receives material that does not require digging up for the winter just somewhere in the Black Sea coast. This galton (Galtonia), tyulbagiya (Tulbaghia violacea ‘Variegata’), Nerine (Nerine bowdenii), Agapanthus (Agapanthus), ptitsemlechniki (Ornithogalumthyrsoides, O. arabicum, O. dubium), etc. Therefore, buying a new bulb, it is necessary to clarify this point before burying.

But the warming of winters in recent years shows that our capacity expansion: successfully overwinter Dutch iris – ksifiumy (irisxhollandica). We have a few years and keeps blooming dihelostemma ida-Maya (Dichelostemma ida-maia) from California.

Diseases and Treatment

At a delay of growth, the sudden yellowing and wilting, you can dig up and check the status of the bulb – perhaps the reason moleskin the tunnel, but can – this is the beginning of the disease.

Although prior to planting bulbs can be disinfected bright pink permanganate, fundazol or other antifungal medicines, it is still nothing to keep fungal diseases, if site conditions contraindicated the culture, and summer is hot and damp. The most common fungal diseases are manifested in the form of brown or black marks on the leaves, fluffy gray plaque. Sick plants can be treated with fungicides, but strong organisms, satisfied conditions of detention, usually survive without it. Pale yellow, light green markings on the leaves, especially paired with knobby surface can be caused by viruses and such copies shall be rejected. Actually, quite a lot of diseases (in hyacinth, for example, about 40), but they are fortunately rare. Nematodes and specific pests such as flies nartsissovoy (although hyacinths she too dangerous), onion root mite, lily beetle are discussed in detail the many benefits of growing.