Tulip from spring to autumn: Tips gardener

Troubles begin as early as March, when the snow is almost melted. To start you must go see if that had gathered there somewhere in the flowerbed melt water. Stagnation of water is dangerous for the bulbs. Do not interfere with discharge to dig ditches or crowbar to break holes in the frozen ground around the perimeter of the flowerbed.

In early spring the most important task – to feed. The best use for the ammonium nitrate (20 grams per square meter). Its granules are easily dissolved in the snow and water-nitrogen and rapidly reaches the roots. It is believed that other elements of the supply should be sufficient to fall, the main fertilizer.

Spring is not without frost. They – the eternal cause of anxiety and professionals and amateurs. But in our case, all the easier. Tulips are fairly resistant to cooling. Wild species are able to withstand frost up to -15 degrees Celsius. In the spring of 2004, when the frost was -12 degrees, our collection of more than fifty varieties are not affected. Peduncles with buds may be dead at night, in the morning to bow to the ground, but a day to straighten again. A certain danger crows. They can peck peck or germ buds. We put the wire arc and pulls the plastic mesh. You can just temporarily put on sprouts spiny branches.

At this time, clearly visible diseased plants. Sometimes, some tulips are stunted or have purple leaves. This is a symptom of the disease rots. These bulbs should immediately dig up and destroy. It is convenient to do so by a narrow shovel grub.

When the buds are already visible, perform the second tulip feeding. In this phase of development is better to use liquid fertilizer. We make the uterine concentrated solution “Kemira Suite (100 g per liter of water). Then abundantly pour water from the flower heads, adding to it a glass of the solution. Per square meter color must get all 10-15 grams of dry fertilizer. Watering is important in a period of intensive development of plants. Uniform soil moisture increases the size of the flower and lengthens the period of flowering, prevents the premature conclusion of vegetation and improves the quality of bulbs.

If there are doubts about the health of bulbs, tulips can be treated with biological preparations from fungal and bacterial diseases. They are pretty much on sale. We use “Fitosporin-M” or “Baikal-EM, adding concentrated at watering. On their effectiveness much controversy, but the damage just will not.

It is known that viral diseases are not treatable. It is therefore necessary to carefully monitor the signs of their occurrence. The easiest way to do this in the beginning of flowering. Ruthlessly remove all plants from uncommon for the class color of petals, the strokes on them, with dwarf growth. Remember, viruses spread not only sucking insects (aphids although they surely will spread). Pollen from diseased plants, fertilize healthy, and infect it. And, of course, compulsory sterilization, such as alcohol, knives or scissors in vase life of flowers.

If you want to get high-quality bulbs, you should continue to care and after flowering. When opadut petals, to break off all of the ovary, then the leaves will only work on the growth of bulbs. Not bad at this time that the third foliar potassium and phosphorus. It is convenient to use for the fully water-soluble potassium monophosphate. By digging bulbs start at about one third of the whites of the page (this is true in most cases, although there are exceptions). If you miss with the digging, then the slot crumble and part of the bulbs is lost.

Spring – a great time to plan a fall planting tulips. Walk to the exhibition, visit, come to the garden to see how it looks in the life of tulips, but not on the advertising picture.