In the last two winters, he returned empty-handed from Patagonia, which is now apparently succeeded him for a long time pursued the project: On 20 and 21 January 2012 climbed the 21-year-old Austrian David Lama released as the first climber on the “Compressor route” to the Cerro Torre, without getting around using hooks or other securing means or burdening them. As he told about the Internet, he evaded and his climbing partner Peter Ortner Bohrhakentraverse the middle part of the route has a technically difficult left edge of it, the lama at the second attempt without falling overcame. After a bivouac they followed in the head wall, the final steep wall, first the original route, and then to traverse below the after since the first ascent in the hanging wall to the right compressor. Through a system of cracks and intersections they reached about noon of the 21st The January 3128 meter peak..

Myth Cerro Torre

The 21-year-old Austrian David Lama, after he has climbed the Cerro Torre

Since its controversial first ascent in 1959 by Cesare Maestri and Toni Egger the sleek granite obelisk in the Argentine Andes is of particular importance. Due to the poor structure of the rock and extreme weather conditions in the Patagonian Cerro Torre by many to be the most difficult mountain in the world is viewed. Maestri returned in 1970 and forced an ascent via the southeast ridge, by using a compressor-operated drill about 300 bolts and put them climbed up, but without entering the Gipfeleispilz. Only in 1974 was the first undisputed ascent of the mountain by Casimiro Ferrari and other members of the Lombard Group Climbing “Ragging di Lecco” on the west side.

The free ascent of “defaced” by Maestris bolts route has been trying for several years, many well-known climbers had failed them. His rise through the head wall was loud Lamas information more difficult by the fact that the Canadians and the Americans Jason Kruk Hayden Kennedy there a few days earlier had knocked off all the bolts, which gave rise to considerable debate within the climbing scene on the ethical acceptability of such interventions. For Lama meant that he was able to secure not only the new workarounds, but also on the original route only to secure natural resources such as clamping devices and snares. He described the hedge due to the hollow and loose dandruff as “very modest”, he had to take great potential headroom in purchasing.

Alpine Historic step

David Lama and his partner climb the Col de la Patienca high to reach the Cerro Torre in Patagonia

David Lama, who saw himself exposed to his first try because extra bolts and ropes attached to a film crew vehement attacks (BBC 8th and 18th 11th 4th 11), the mean free ascent of the “Compressor Route” an important step in its alpine career. Most recently he has turned to the sport and competition climbing and alpine climbing-from; during the year 2011 he presented a number of challenging routes demonstrate his excellent form. At Cerro Kishtwar, a six-thousand in the Indian part of Kashmir, he succeeded with the Swiss mountaineer Stephan Siegrist, Denis Burdet and a first ascent in alpine style and without bolts. He also repeated a number of climbing routes in the Alps in the tenth degree of difficulty, including several tours of the first ascent of Alexander Huber and Ueli Steck and Stephan Siegrist, “Paciencia” on the Eiger’s north face. Against this background, llamas historic success on Cerro Torre understandable.