Introduction
Deliberately avoiding references to the great battles that shredded the New Guinea archipelago, from 1939 to 1945, has been one aim of this series. Nevertheless, I couldn’t go past telling the tale of my three arduous treks along one famed battlefield, from those wartime years, the Kokoda Trail. It is so important for Australia’s involvement in World War II. This year (2009) alone has seen over two thousand trekkers brave the steep mountain track to relive those years of bloody bravery.

The Kokoda Track is globally significant, too, as a battle ground that stopped the Japanese army snatching Port Moresby. This one fight turned the tide of World War in favour of the Allies. This is my experience with that legendary ten day trek, over the rugged Owen Stanley Ranges to Kokoda, on New Guinea’s Northern flank.

Image by Arthur Chapman via Flickr

1985
My first trip to Kokoda happened after my first year at Melbourne University. My friend Jenifer, now an Internet whiz-kid in California, agreed that we should undertake that grueling trip. As a kid growing up in Port Moresby you are literally soaked with stories of the legendary Kokoda Trail. I was twenty one, full of vim, and ready to go!

We stayed at my home in Port Moresby and then we befriended Rowena, who was local to Popondetta, a town near Kokoda. Life wasn’t great for her in, “Moresby,” at the time. Meeting us meant she could return home to her family. So, it suited the three of us to a tee. By the way, you don’t walk the Kokoda Track with a party smaller than three, as you will get lost, if you try that beast alone.

Also, we hired porters to carry our gear, which is advisable on your first trek. In later years, I carried my own gear, as I was a paid track guide.

It was late-afternoon as Jen, Rowena, the porters and I arrived at Owers Corner, gateway to the track. We then headed down to the bottom of the hill to escape any, “raskols,” or lurking criminals, who could have laid raid on us at the start of this wild adventure.

Image via Wikipedia

Port Moresby to Kokoda – the easiest way
There is conjecture as to whether it’s easier trekking from Port Moresby – Northwards – to Kokoda, the way Australian troops marched to meet the oncoming Japanese army. I still maintain that trekking this direction is easier. I recall on other trips, when I walked southward, that the final climb, leading up to Owers Corner, was remarkably tiring after ten days having walked from the North.

The last two times I walked the Kokoda Track, was from Kokoda to Port Moresby – Southward – following the march of the Japanese army. Again, walking from Port Moresby to Kokoda is far easier. For Aussies, it is authentic going this way, as this is the direction Australian’s defended New Guinea in those bitter years.

Just some hints:-

– Don’t try and be like a fighting army on the Kokoda Track. Take it nice and easy. I always applied a less, “militaristic,” approach. The track is a favourite with Australian men wishing to relive their Grandfather’s battle exploits. Thus, they over do it. Just a few weeks ago (in early October 2009) two relatively fit men died trying. Take it easy, as the battle was won, a long time ago.

– Pack lots of sustenance foods. Chocolate, peanut butter, crackers and salt tablets are essential. High daytime temperatures suck sweat from every pore. Dehydration is not uncommon. If you don’t have salt tablets, you will find yourself in big trouble, from sweat loss. The days are hot, it rains a lot and it is difficult – take sustenance foods.

– Treat the locals with respect. The local people are Seventh Day Adventists, are very generous and polite. Respect their villages, their way of life and the food gardens that you will be walking through. They will respond well if you treat them with respect. It’s a good idea, also, to bring school books, pens and small first-aid kits as gifts. These are things villages along the way truly need for their development. If you hire porters, please, treat them well.