Introduction
Deliberately avoiding references to the great battles that shredded the New Guinea archipelago, from 1939 to 1945, has been one aim of this series. Nevertheless, I couldn’t go past telling the tale of my three arduous treks along one famed battlefield, from those wartime years, the Kokoda Trail. It is so important for Australia’s involvement in World War II. This year (2009) alone has seen over two thousand trekkers brave the steep mountain track to relive those years of bloody bravery.

The Kokoda Track is globally significant, too, as a battle ground that stopped the Japanese army snatching Port Moresby. This one fight turned the tide of World War in favour of the Allies. This is my experience with that legendary ten day trek, over the rugged Owen Stanley Ranges to Kokoda, on New Guinea’s Northern flank.

Image by Arthur Chapman via Flickr

1985
My first trip to Kokoda happened after my first year at Melbourne University. My friend Jenifer, now an Internet whiz-kid in California, agreed that we should undertake that grueling trip. As a kid growing up in Port Moresby you are literally soaked with stories of the legendary Kokoda Trail. I was twenty one, full of vim, and ready to go!

We stayed at my home in Port Moresby and then we befriended Rowena, who was local to Popondetta, a town near Kokoda. Life wasn’t great for her in, “Moresby,” at the time. Meeting us meant she could return home to her family. So, it suited the three of us to a tee. By the way, you don’t walk the Kokoda Track with a party smaller than three, as you will get lost, if you try that beast alone.

Also, we hired porters to carry our gear, which is advisable on your first trek. In later years, I carried my own gear, as I was a paid track guide.

It was late-afternoon as Jen, Rowena, the porters and I arrived at Owers Corner, gateway to the track. We then headed down to the bottom of the hill to escape any, “raskols,” or lurking criminals, who could have laid raid on us at the start of this wild adventure.

Image via Wikipedia

Port Moresby to Kokoda – the easiest way
There is conjecture as to whether it’s easier trekking from Port Moresby – Northwards – to Kokoda, the way Australian troops marched to meet the oncoming Japanese army. I still maintain that trekking this direction is easier. I recall on other trips, when I walked southward, that the final climb, leading up to Owers Corner, was remarkably tiring after ten days having walked from the North.

The last two times I walked the Kokoda Track, was from Kokoda to Port Moresby – Southward – following the march of the Japanese army. Again, walking from Port Moresby to Kokoda is far easier. For Aussies, it is authentic going this way, as this is the direction Australian’s defended New Guinea in those bitter years.

Just some hints:-

– Don’t try and be like a fighting army on the Kokoda Track. Take it nice and easy. I always applied a less, “militaristic,” approach. The track is a favourite with Australian men wishing to relive their Grandfather’s battle exploits. Thus, they over do it. Just a few weeks ago (in early October 2009) two relatively fit men died trying. Take it easy, as the battle was won, a long time ago.

– Pack lots of sustenance foods. Chocolate, peanut butter, crackers and salt tablets are essential. High daytime temperatures suck sweat from every pore. Dehydration is not uncommon. If you don’t have salt tablets, you will find yourself in big trouble, from sweat loss. The days are hot, it rains a lot and it is difficult – take sustenance foods.

– Treat the locals with respect. The local people are Seventh Day Adventists, are very generous and polite. Respect their villages, their way of life and the food gardens that you will be walking through. They will respond well if you treat them with respect. It’s a good idea, also, to bring school books, pens and small first-aid kits as gifts. These are things villages along the way truly need for their development. If you hire porters, please, treat them well.

Image via Wikipedia

1986
My second trip was as a tour guide. We flew into Kokoda and walked South to Port Moresby. I was fortunate to walk with Osborne Bogijiwa, the first man to run the Kokoda Track, in under 24 hours. He is a great man whose record-breaking attempt was recorded in the Guinness Book of World Records in 1987. This record was only just recently smashed. I trekked with an American nurse, her partner, Richard (my charge) and Osborne.

I do recall, on my second trek, I was ill equipped. Make sure you wear the right boots and take a decent backpack. I was a bit foolish in retrospect; my kit wasn’t up to scratch. 

That was the best trip. I remember we had lots of fun with an amiable group of visitors and supports guides. The trek then was still not as popular as it is today.

1997
I was a hired guide on the third trip. “The Track,” had grown in fame over the eleven years since my second foray. I was the head of a group of fourteen older, avid adventurers each with their own reason for trying. Papua New Guineans, numbering fourteen, evened the group to twenty eight. Our Papua New Guinean captain was the most amiable man and we instantly hit it off. It was fun being the go-between between the Papua New Guineans and the Australians.

The group was made up of an older crowd, the youngest being thirty five. I was the youngest Australian at thirty three. They were a great group, all keen, yet a touch underprepared. One mistake is not being prepared; do take the correct equipment, the right sustenance and try to be fit. The trek wends its’ way across razor-back ridges, raging rivers and snake infested jungles.

The best time to walk the Kokoda Track is in the Dry Season from May to November. You are in for relentless rain if you go any other time.

Image via Wikipedia

Kokoda Calls

Today, I find the lure of the Kokoda Trail unmistakable. Perhaps I will one day return. I imagine I will do it with a group of friends next time. It’s more friendly, fun and relaxed trekking that way. When you lead you are burdened with extra responsibility. That adds that extra-nervousness it. That’s a nervousness, that when confronted with that thick dank jungle, I would prefer not to carry.

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The Islands of Love and the Crocodile Pit

Goroka, the Mud Men and a Load of Trout

Madang Runaway

Rule New Britannia

Thank-you for enjoying Niugini Tales. Stay tuned for more Web series from James DeVere, Sydney’s first Web author.